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A lady with a love for literature and shiny things discusses books & bling.

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SJ Shrubsole’s magnificent coaching brooch.

Good morning, my darlings!

I have something truly exciting to show you today. I met this piece over the summer at the New York Antique Jewelry and Watch show, but I was asked not to reveal it to you until after it made its debut at this Fall’s New York TEFAF.

It was actually hidden at the show: in the back of the booth, on a high shelf, in a closed box. But the lovely, lovely folks of SJ Shrubsole knew how exceptional it was, and knew how much I would enjoy seeing it…so they made a phone call and secured permission for me to take these pictures for you, my darlings, in exchange for my promise that I wouldn’t share anything until I got the green light.

And now that glorious day has come. Are you ready?

An incredible antique Victorian era brooch of a coaching scene, held in my hand for scale. Circa 1880, at SJ Shrubsole. In original box.

It is no exaggeration to say this coaching brooch is one of the most incredible pieces of jewelry I’ve ever seen (and I have seen some jewelry). Its size, its materials, its absolutely exquisite craftsmanship…there’s no comparison. I hope I see it again someday in a museum.

This glorious coaching brooch is from the Victorian era, dating to 1880. It’s still in its original box from Steeter, on New Bond St. It’s silver over gold, set with diamonds, enamel various hardstones, and one ruby in the lantern.

In this shot, you can really see the scale: this thing is huge. You can even see the little step that the tiny, diamond passengers would have used to ascend into their conveyance.

I wish my photos had come out a little better, but there’s only so much I can do with indoor lighting – and this gorgeous thing deserves to be seen. The level of detail is incredible. Even the tiny diamond hats on the gentleman have brims.

Detail view of an incredible Victorian era brooch of a coaching scene. Circa 1880, at SJ Shrubsole.Four perfectly defined diamond carriage horses with gorgeous gold tack pulling an enameled gold carriage with red enameled golden wheels that actually turn, topped by three perfect, diamond-encrusted passengers (and one coachman).

Every detail of this coaching brooch is utterly perfect, from the lines of motion of the horses legs to the ruby light in the carriage’s hanging lamp to the ribs of the umbrella that the lady passenger is holding.

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How to wear a brooch: 13 styles you’ll want to try.

What’s a cooler piece of jewelry than a brooch? They can be shaped like anything and to wear one, you just stick it to yourself in any way you want. I’m all about them…in theory.

In reality: I’m terrible at brooches. They make me nervous. I can put them anywhere I want? What if I choose a stupid place? What if the brooch isn’t at the right angle? Is it hanging correctly? I’d better try this another day.

I’m determined to overcome my brooch fears and I’d like to invite you to join me! The weather is getting colder, and autumn and winter are the perfect seasons to wear a brooch. So many layers and accessories just ripe for adornment.

To aid me on my quest to wear a brooch like a boss, I’ve rounded up some brooch-spiration to encourage me to try new things. Without further ado, I present 13 ways to wear a brooch.

A fantastic antique diamond and demantoid garnet lizard brooch from Lang Antiques.The combination of textures and colors is what really kills me about this photo from Lang Antiques. I love the chunky knit of the sweater with the nubby old cut stones of the diamond and demantoid garnet brooch.

That, and how the lizard is positioned so that it looks like it’s gazing curiously out at the world. I want a shoulder friend as cool as this one.

A Vionnet gown from 1938. I'm loving the rhinestone star details - I want to recreate this with brooches.This is not brooches. This is rhinestone detailing on a Vionnet gown from 1938. Why is it in my article on how to wear a brooch? Because it makes me want to cover the straps of a cocktail dress with brooches.

The fabulous Anya of GemFever rocking an antique bar brooch on a blue blouse.This image comes to us from my lovely friend Anya, who is kind of a wizard with brooches (teach me your ways, Anya!).

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Two exceptional examples of antique portrait jewelry.

I’ve developed an increasing love of antique portrait jewelry.

There’s something magical about a piece of jewelry that can look back at you – and with antique pieces, the degree of mystery is even more fascinating: was the piece inspired by a real person, or is it an abstract representation? If it was inspired by a specific person – who was it? Did they like their portrait? Did they choose to be represented this way? Who was it commissioned by/for?

I was browsing the SJ Phillips website recently and I found these two examples of antique portrait jewelry. They’re very different, but both spectacular. I decided I absolutely had to share them both with you.

Antique portrait jewelry: A Victorian Egyptial Revival antique portrait brooch in enamel with diamonds and sapphires.

The first piece we’re looking at is diminutive in size – only about an inch wide – but mighty in impact: a stunning, highly-detailed colorful example of the Victorian Egyptian Revival style.

This beauty features a fabulously dressed woman in a pink striped dress and glorious feathered Egyptian-style headdress. She’s in front of a richly colored plique-a-jour background in red and gold. She’s set in a border of old-cut diamonds and sapphires, creating a wonderful color contrast and a beautiful silhouette for the piece. As I said: tiny but packs a strong punch.

With a hinged pendant loop on the back, this pretty little brooch can also be worn on a necklace.

Antique portrait jewelry: Antique gold and gem set pendant with a flamenco dancer by Fuset y Grau, Barcelona, circa 1910. A beautiful example of the Catalan variant of Art Nouveau style.

While the first piece of antique portrait jewelry is beautiful, the second is even more unique. And mind-bogglingly gorgeous, no?

This beauty dates to 1910 and shows a fantastically glamorous flamenco dancer in colorful enamel with a gold bangle and a diamond necklace and hair accessory. She’s so romantic – the roses in her dark, curly hair, the folds of her green gown, the curve of her shoulder as she turns slightly away from the viewer. She’s incredible. And her glamorous frame only adds to the overall effect of luscious, glamorous beauty.

She’s a signed piece by Fuset y Grau, who I wasn’t familiar with before now. Here’s SJ Phillips’ bio on the maker:

Fuset y Grau was a contemporary of Lluis Masriera, also based in Barcelona, and who worked in a similar artistic style through the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. The two jewellers were amongst the leading representatives of the Spanish Modernista movement which was the Catalan variant of Art Nouveau. Fuset was a craftsman distinguished by his use of ivory, pearls, colored stones and yellow gold in his work. Although there is very little published about his jewellery, Fuset y Grau’s pieces were shown at the International Decorative Arts Exhibition in Paris, 1925.

After seeing this pendant, I’m definitely going to keep an eye out for more by Fuset y Grau.

These two pieces of antique portrait jewelry are both currently for sale at SJ Phillips. All images and info are thanks to SJ Phillips.

 A Victorian Egyptian Revival antique portrait brooch in enamel with diamonds and sapphires. Circa 1870. Antique gold and gem set pendant with a flamenco dancer by Fuset y Grau, Barcelona, circa 1910. A beautiful example of the Catalan variant of Art Nouveau style.Two examples of antique portrait jewelry. The first is a beautiful Victorian Egyptian revival brooch pendant in enamel with sapphires and diamonds and the second is an Art Nouveau pendant by Fuset y Grau.

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