When I first saw Doryn Wallach’s jewelry, I had the odd thought that the designs reminded me of a room that I loved. No specific room – maybe the dream Hollywood Regency style dressing room in my head. Where I wear a flowing peignoir and slippers with feathers on them.
I know that’s a weird thing to say, but it was where my brain went.
My reaction made sense, it turned out – Doryn Wallach had a succesful career as an interior designer before she came to the jewelry industry. She explains the connection on her website:
“I have always loved how jewelry can give every woman a personal expression of style and personality. Fine jewelry commemorates the important moments in our lives and can create lasting style statements,” said the designer. “My passion for jewelry is inspired by my mother who would frequently redesign her old jewelry and taught me the challenge of transforming old trends into new. I love turning patterns, architecture and different elements of interior decor into themes for my jewelry. It’s the same beauty of reinvention.”
It was what I had felt it in her architectural designs; their swooping arches and careful angles. I love the thickness of the bold lines, the overall lightness, the rich satiney finish of the 18 karat gold.
Most of the pieces in the initial Doryn Wallach collection have a sparkling diamond or two, sometimes more than a few. The subtlety and restraint in the use of gemstones is part of what makes this collection so remarkable. Bold lines, subtle sparkle.
That’s not to say that Doryn Wallach never turns up the volume – just look at the onyx marble ring above, and the the turquoise “Gladiator” ring. Such beauty in the simple contrast of color and texture. They’re quiet, but they make a statement.
These babies from Gregore Morin of Gregore Joailliers were one of my very very favorites of the whole AGTA Spectrum 2016 event. Thin, perfectly hewn panels of lapis lazuli set with pink tourmaline in 18k yellow gold. To-die-for.
This ring from the fabulous Wendy Brandes is simply one of the coolest things I’ve ever seen in my life. It’s rose and white gold with platinum; studded with 4.5 cts of tsavorite garnets along with brown diamonds, white diamonds, rubies, and Kashi pearls.
It’s from her Maneater series, so it has a secret: when you flip the ring over, you can see the body of a vanquished knight digesting in the dragon’s stomach. It’s called the Dragon and Knight ring.
This is the Erica Courtney “Starburst” necklace with a 15.25 carat opal, accented with pink spinels, demantoid garnets, and diamonds. I just love that chain with its bright, precious fringe.
Have you heard that emerald engagement rings are back? 
Another super favorite of the day: this is the Galaxy bracelet from Michael Endlich of Pave Fine Jewelry. It’s silver with 22k yellow gold with sapphires and diamonds. It’s one of the subtler pieces I saw at AGTA Spectrum 2016, but I think it’s just fantastic.
Detail of the Galaxy bracelet. I love the texture and the understated colors with the rich yellow gold sprinkled across it.
These earrings from William Travis Jewelry were incredible – the gemstone components have their own glow.
Another very unique – but more understated – piece from William Travis Jewelry is this green tourmaline ring. The tourmaline is stunning, but what caught my eye was the setting: structural yellow gold with tiny, dangling rose gold chain fringes.
These brooches are both by Naomi Sarna Designs – one with a baroque freshwater cultured pearl and colored sapphires, amethysts and diamonds on both. Naomi Sarna had a number of pieces in the AGTA Spectrum 2016 showcase and I loved every single one.
Aren’t the colors on this wedding set wonderful? It’s mostly aquamarine (5.96 ct center stone) with tsavorite garnets and diamonds. By Robert Pellicca at JR Dunn Jewelers.
And that side view! Swoon.
How about these bi-color tourmaline pieces of heaven? By Julie Lamb.
I loved the color contrast and the details on these earrings by Brenda Smith. 22k gold leaves and cultured pearls on silver.
Badass Eclat Jewels’ bracelet with a 105 ct aquamarine in 18k yellow gold and black enamel.
Is this, or is this not the prettiest bug ever? I think it is.
How perfectly lovely is this set of rings by Laurence Bruyninckx? 14k white and rose gold set with diamonds, pink tourmaline, and pink sapphires. I love the effect of the diversely clustered marquise stones.
I had a wonderful conversation once with Pamela Huizenga, the designer of this piece, about how she wished she could just attach precious stones to her skin. I’m glad she still has to make them into jewelry, because that’s how this fire opal stingray brooch happened. So good.
Here’s a really cool piece – the “Peacock Slave” ring by Cynthia Back. Amthyst and demantoid garnet in 18 gold.
I had to put these of Annie Fensterstock earrings on as soon as I saw them. I claim these in the name of Team Brunette.
Hello, beautiful. I have a thing for antique snake rings, and I didn’t think they had a contemporary equivalent until I met this wonder by Juan Da Silva.
This bracelet was one of the pieces from AGTA Spectrum 2016 that I most wanted to added to my personal jewelry wardrobe. It’s by K Brunini Jewels, and it’s ridiculously cool. The joined triangles make it look like a starburst on your arm when it’s worn; the triangles feature black opals on one side and rich, brown cocobolo wood on the other side, with yellow diamonds for added pizzazz.
How’s this for a statement ring? By Jennifer R. Morin of Gregore Joailliers, this sterling silver ring features a 30.70 ct fire agate cabochon set in mother of pearl with green garnets. Such mesmerizing iridescence.
These pearl-on-pearl Finestro earrings were getting a lot of attention, and it’s not hard to see why. They’re not the flashiest, but the extremely cool texture of the tiny cultured freshwater pearls set into the opening in a larger freshwater cultured pearl is fascinating.
This spectacular trio can be separated and worn individually, but I love how they stack all together. The top ring is white gold with diamonds and a 5.84ct tanzanite, the middle has a 2.47 pink spinel with diamonds and small pink spinels, and the third ring has diamonds in white gold with a 4.56 ct red spinel. By Gulgun Buldanlioglu of Maya Fine Jewelry.
These Campbellian earrings won Best Use of Color and it’s not hard to see why. 17.05 carats of green tourmaline with 4.14 carats of emeralds. (You see what I mean about green gemstones trending?)
I’m not going to lie to you, I just wore this necklace around the event for a while. This peacock feather necklace by Robert Pellicca of J.R. Dunn Jewelers start with a 7.78 carat opal and just gets better from there.
THIS is the Tempest ring by Lindhardt Designs. Made from oxidized sterling silver and yellow sapphires, it’s another well-deserving award winner. So visually interesting, and much more comfortable to wear than you might expect.
These babies were the very last piece I saw. The kind AGTA Spectrum folks has already called a car for me and I was waiting by the door with my purse and my coat when I realized I’d missed these earrings. I dropped my things on the ground (like a lady) and ran off to get one last photo. Totally worth it.