Castellani Archives

Leslie Hindman Auctioneers has another glorious jewelry auction coming up, and it’s right around the corner: the December Important Jewelry Auction. The Chicago preview starts on Wednesday, and the auction itself is next Sunday, Monday and Tuesday.

I’ve combed through the literally hundreds of auction lots and picked out my favorite pieces to give you a starting point to decide what you can’t let get away next week when the bidding starts.

I had a little help, actually: Alex, Meredith, and Jamie of Leslie Hindman’s jewelry department spent nearly an hour on the phone with me, giving me the inside scoop on the most noteworthy pieces coming up in the December Important Jewelry Auction. And oh my goodness, there are some good ones.

If you’ve never bid in a Leslie Hindman auction before, this is a great one to start with. They have a wonderful introductory page here to walk you through the particulars of getting started. There are some really great pieces spanning a variety of price points. It’s their second-biggest sale ever, which means there’s a whole lot to love.

Let’s dive in!

Lot 34: A Fine Renaissance Revival Gold, Silver, Multi Gem and Polychrome Enamel Pendant, Augusto Castellani, Circa 1860.

We’re starting out with this delicious jewel right here: a colorful, eye-catching specimen of Renaissance Revival jewelry crafted by a master of revival jewelry, Augusto Castellani. If that weren’t enough, this piece also bears a strong resemblance to a piece in the British Royal Collection that is also attributed to Augusto Castellani and is believed to have been acquired by Queen Mary.

Beautiful, historically significant, and dazzlingly well-preserved? Sign me up.

Lot 6: A Pair of Egyptian Revival Yellow Gold Micromosaic Hoop Earrings, French.

I’ve seen some cool micro-mosaic pieces in my jewelry adventures, but I’ve never, ever seen anything like these hoop earrings.

It’s even Egyptian revival micro-mosaic; look at those colorful scarabs near the top!! I love the rope detail edging on the sides, too. A fascinating, unique pair of treasures in exquisite condition. Also…the low auction estimate is $500, which blows my mind.

Lot 20: A Georgian Gold and Garnet Lover’s Eye Ring.
Lot 21: A Georgian Rose Gold and Seed Pearl Lover’s Eye Brooch.
Lot 23: A Georgian Yellow Gold Lover’s Eye Locket.
Lot 24: A Georgian Yellow Gold, Pink Gemstone and Seed Pearl Lover’s Eye Brooch.
Lot 25: A Georgian Glass and Seed Pearl Lover’s Eye Pendant.

One of the first things I noticed while perusing Leslie Hindman’s December Important Jewelry Auction is that there a whole lot of delicious little Georgian pieces in day 1. I know a some of my antique jewelry Instagram buddies are going to go gaga for these – and with good reason, since many of these little pretties have auction estimates that start below $1,000.

Lot 1: A Pair of Georgian Yellow Gold and Emerald Convertible Pendoloque Drop Earrings, Spain/Portugal.

Oh, hello, you magnificent beauties.

Look at those chased, bezel settings, those rich green emeralds, that perfect articulation. Even better: one of the pendants has a removable brooch fitting, so it can be worn in more than one way.

Good morning, my darlings! Today we’re going to talk about the noble necklace: more specifically, notable styles of necklaces throughout history, as illustrated by the glorious inventory of renowned jewelry dealer, M. Khordipour.

Victorian

We’re starting with two fantastic (and very different) examples of Victorian necklaces! The first one is a wonderful example of the sentimentality of the Victorian era. In a time when what one said out loud was carefully regulated by societal rules, inanimate objects – like what one wore and how – took on great meaning.

This black enamel and diamond locket is a wonderful example of Victorian sentimental jewelry. It was probably made to hold a likeness or a memento of a loved one – a miniature painting or a lock of hair. The black enamel suggests that it may have been a mourning piece, worn in tribute to a loved one lost. Whatever its original intention, the vivid contrast of the yellow gold, pristine black enamel, and bright diamonds makes it a striking and wearable piece.

The second Victorian piece we’re looking at fits into a category of jewelry that you know I adore: archaeological revival.

In the mid 1800’s, an Italian jeweler named Fortunato Pio Castellani, perfected the technique of creating jewelry in a style inspired by the ancient Etruscan jewels of the past. He’d been interested in designs inspired by antiquity for some time, but his personal style really flourished after he and his sons were given access to a large collection of artifacts by the papal bank, which had seized them from a bankrupt collector.

When the Victorian world – already in love with Egyptian revival styles – saw Castellani’s Etruscan-style jewels, they feel in love. The style became wildly popular, influencing the designs of other makers of the time.

This exquisite Victorian Etruscan revival set (I know earrings are off topic, but I couldn’t resist including them) is by French goldsmith, Eugène Fontenay. He was also known for his work in the archaeological revival style – and for creating this emerald and diamond tiara for Empress Eugenie.

Edwardian

The invention of the oxyacetylene torch in 1903 meant that platinum jewelry exploded onto the scene in the Edwardian era, inspiring the creation of designs that took advantage of the strong, bright, beautiful metal’s unique properties. Edwardian jewelry is delicate, with lots of flourishes, garlands, bows, and lace-like platinum openwork frequently embellished with diamonds.

Edwardian jewelry is not hard to love.

Above, you can see two M Khordipour beauties from the Edwardian era. The pendant on the right is a perfect example of the airy, spun-sugar delicacy that was made possible in the Edwardian era by advances in platinum-working technology. This piece features the textbook Edwardian platinum openwork, accented by onyx, pearls, and diamonds. Read More

Leslie Hindman’s December Important Jewelry Auction.

Necklaces through the ages with M. Khordipour.

Victorian

Edwardian

Victorian

Edwardian

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