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A lady with a love for literature and shiny things discusses books & bling.

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Art Deco Cartier carved emerald bead necklace.

The Cartier carved emerald bead necklace you are about to admire is a perfectly proportioned masterpiece of colors, textures, and shapes.

Detail: Art Deco Cartier emerald carved bead necklace with onyx, and diamonds. Circa 1925. Via Diamonds in the Library.

Cartier carved emeralds are famous, and it’s not hard to see why. The Indian-inspired carved emeralds began to appear in Cartier’s jewels in earnest after Jacques Cartier visited India in 1911 and had a chance to examine the jewels of several wealthy maharajahs.

This necklace dates to 1925, shortly after that inspiring journey. With its juicy carved emeralds and geometric diamond/onyx spacers, it’s a glorious meeting of Indian-inspired gemstones and the typical Art Deco aesthetic.

Art Deco Cartier emerald carved bead necklace with onyx, and diamonds. Circa 1925. Via Diamonds in the Library.

This necklace features 32 exquisitely fluted emerald beads. The beads are graduated, meaning they are smaller towards the back of the necklace and gradually increase in size around to the front. Between each emerald bead is a  an onyx and single-cut diamond rondell spacer, which lends the piece its vivid color contrast.

Detail: Art Deco Cartier emerald carved bead necklace with onyx, and diamonds. Circa 1925. Via Diamonds in the Library.

I figured you’d want a closer look.

The cherry on top of this piece is the lovely elongated clasp pavé-set with rose-cut diamonds. Because it wasn’t pretty enough already.

Art Deco Cartier emerald carved bead necklace with onyx, and diamonds. Circa 1925. Via Diamonds in the Library.

Oh, Cartier. You weaken my knees every time.

What do you think of this Art Deco piece? Does it float your boat?

This Cartier carved emerald bead necklace was listed in a 2011 Bonhams auction. All images and info are thanks to Bonhams.

Art Deco diamond hair combs by Black, Starr & Frost.

Have I mentioned my love of hair bling recently? I am a serious hair bling enthusiast. You wear your hair every day, you might as well adorn it.

Much of the most fabulous hair bling comes to us from the past. Remember the Cartier hair ornament I showed you a while ago, and my roundup of tiaras? Such beauty. These Art Deco diamond hair combs are much subtler and more adaptable than those statement pieces. While you could wear them all together for a seriously sparkly effect, you could also choose to deploy a single comb for less glittering coifs.

Art Deco diamond hair combs featuring a Greek key motif in single-cut diamonds and gold prongs. Circa 1910 by Black, Starr & Frost. Via Diamonds in the Library.

These three Art Deco diamond hair combs date to 1910 are the work of American jewelery manufacturer Black, Starr & Frost. They’re each adorned by an openwork rectangular plaque featuring three Greek key scrolls and millegrain set with single-cut diamonds. These lead to two curving golden prongs on each comb, which are attached to the rectangular panel by an engraved element at the top of each prong.

Detail: Art Deco diamond hair combs featuring a Greek key motif in single-cut diamonds and gold prongs. Circa 1910 by Black, Starr & Frost. Via Diamonds in the Library.

Here’s a close look at the decorative tops. S.J. Philips doesn’t give any metal for the rectangular panels or engraved elements, but I’m guessing it’s platinum given the era and the materials (although it could also be white gold). You can really see the millegraining (the lines of what look like little dots along the edges of the metalwork) in this photo. It’s a subtle touch, but its effect on the overall texture of the piece is just wonderful. Ditto for the engraved element attaching the gold prongs to the rectangular panel. Neither would be noticeable from further away, but close up both are deliberate and lovely.

One from a set of three Art Deco diamond hair combs featuring a Greek key motif in single-cut diamonds and gold prongs. Circa 1910 by Black, Starr & Frost. Via Diamonds in the Library.

The photo quality isn’t quite as excellent as I prefer, but it’s good enough for me to really want to play with these.

Do you ever rock hair bling of your own? How would you wear these combs?

These Art Deco diamond hair combs are currently for sale at S.J. Philips. All images and info are thanks to S.J. Philips.

More lovely antique rings from Erstwhile Jewelry Co.

My store profile of Erstwhile Jewelry Co. is still one of my favorite posts ever. Do you remember that antique engagement ring with the ribbon details? Gorgeous. I went to check in with Erstwhile recently to see what new treasures they’ve found since then.

As usual, Erstwhile’s selection of antique rings had me drooling on my keyboard (metaphorically). Let’s take a look.

This antique ring is Edwardian and centers a 2.80 carat diamond set in gold and platinum and framed by calibre cut emeralds and single cut diamonds in a scalloped outer border. Circa 1910. Via Diamonds in the Library.

This glorious antique ring is Edwardian, from 1910. It centers a 2.80 carat diamond set in gold and platinum and framed by calibre cut emeralds and single cut diamonds in a scalloped outer border. It’s lovely, light, and bold all at once.

Victorian antique engagement ring in gold and silver with a ruby and two old mine cut diamonds, circa 1875. Via Diamonds in the Library.

This Victorian beauty was probably made as an engagement ring, but it would be beautiful on any finger. Set in silver and gold, it was made in 1875 and features a ruby and two old mine cut diamonds.

Antique Art Deco engagement ring centered by a 1.18 carat old European cut diamond, and accented by single cut diamonds, lacy openwork in a sunrise or half-moon pattern, and millegrain details. Via Diamonds in the Library.

My favorite detail on this Art Deco engagement ring is the side view and how the opework gallery looks like a geometric sunrise. It’s also from 1920, is centered by a 1.18 carat old European cut diamond, and is accented by single cut diamonds and millegrain details.

2.3 carat antique Art Deco engagement ring with sparkling side stones, a filigree openwork gallery, and engraved details. Circa 1920. Via Diamonds in the Library.

This 2.3 carat antique ring was made in 1920 and it’s a dream come true. It’s listed as an engagement ring, but I’d be thrilled to wear this beauty on any finger. The gently engraved band sprinkled with sparkling stones; the elegant, architectural gallery, the old European cut stone in its octagonal setting.

Antique Art Deco emerald and diamond ring with millegrain details and elaborate engraving, circa 1920. Would be beautiful as a cocktail ring or an engagement ring. Via Diamonds in the Library.

This glorious Art Deco ring is from 1920 and it’s centered by a old European cut diamond prong set in a square setting framed in calibre cut emeralds. The shoulders feature a gorgeous triple-line design in diamonds that lends the effect of a split shank. It is decorated with millegrain details, elaborate engraving, and is the perfect size for my right hand.

Have I mentioned to you enough times recently how much I love engraving? I love engraving. This antique ring (actually, most of these antique rings) can remind you why.

Early Art Deco antique ring with a bezel set sapphire set within two octagonal millegrain-edged platinum borders set with diamonds in platinum over gold. Via Diamonds in the Library.

This early Art Deco sapphire and diamond ring is another that I’d love to see as an engagement ring or as any-finger bling. It was made in 1910 and centers a vivid bezel set sapphire within two octagonal millegrain-edged platinum borders set with diamonds. It’s platinum on gold, and I’ve rarely seen a more powerful argument for mixing metals. How incredible is that side view?

This antique Art Deco ring centers a 1 carat bezel-set emerald accented with single cut diamonds and calibre cut emeralds decorated with delicate millegrain details. Via Diamonds in the Library.

I think this Art Deco emerald and diamond ring is basically perfect (although I’d say that about most of these antique rings). The lines, the colors, the texture! It centers a 1 carat bezel-set emerald accented with single cut diamonds and calibre cut emeralds decorated with delicate millegrain details.

All images and info in this post are thanks to Erstwhile Jewelry Co. Please see individual descriptions above for links to each of these antique rings.

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