enamel Archives

Enamel and ruby bracelet by Carlo Giuliano.

August 9, 2013

This is far from the first time we’ve talked about my love of the delicate enamel work that the Guliano family was known for, but I think it is the first bracelet.

It’s a very subtle piece – much less flashy than some I’ve shown you – but I think that’s part of its beauty. It doesn’t need to yell for attention. It just waits for the right eye to look closely and realize how exception it is and then it reveals its full beauty.

This particular piece is the work of Carlo Giuliano himself, and was made between 1874 and 1895. It is of pierced scrollwork design, alternating between green paste stones and elaborately designed links of monochromatic enamel and cabochon rubies.

There’s a close up of the detail for you. Isn’t it wonderful? So restrained and yet complex.

This Carlo Giuliano bracelet was listed in Sotheby’s July 2013 Fine Jewels sale. All images and info are thanks to Sotheby’s.

Ring roundup: weirdos.

August 8, 2013

These rings all struck me as unusual in some way. But fabulous, of course.

Here’s the ring that inspired this post. It’s insane. Almost off-putting. It looks like a blank ring was covered in glue and dropped into a jeweler’s work tray. But the longer I looked at it, the more I came to love it. It’s beautiful – an abstract collage of varicolored gemstones set in a platinum and diamond canvas.

If you look closely, can see that the emeralds and rubies are carved, tutti-frutti style. The varying opacity of the stones mean that this beauty would catch the light in a really interesting way. It’s an Art Deco dinner ring from 1925, and the lovelies it’s set with include carved emeralds, sapphires, rubies, amethysts, citrines, and diamonds. The whole melange is framed within a border of black enamel.

Tutti-frutti Art Deco dinner ring, circa 1925. An unusual design incorporating carved emeralds, sapphires, rubies, amethysts, citrines, and diamonds within a border of black enamel.

I would wear it. Let’s see some more unusual rings!

28 carat emerald-cut aquamarine and diamond cocktail ring in two-tone gold, circa 1960s-1980s. Via Diamonds in the Library.

This ring looks like a porcupine trying to swallow an aquamarine that’s too large for its mouth. You know you see it too. But I mean that in the best way. It’s vintage, from the later part of the 20th century. With its ropelike mixed-metal details, baguette diamond accents, and giant aquamarine, I think this is an exceptionally cool piece.

A very unusual Victorian shell cameo ring in 9 karat rose gold. Via Diamonds in the Library.

This guy is really, seriously weird. Even the good folks at Lang Antiques aren’t sure what the figure is supposed to be (they identified him as “An ancient bearded ancestor of Gene Simmons (of the band Kiss),” which I am 99.9% sure is a joke). This unusual cameo, which is set in rose gold, is Victorian and does indeed feature a bearded man sticking his tongue out. I have a weakness for unusual cameos and I’d wear this one in a heartbeat.

Victorian conch pearl and diamond ring in platinum and yellow gold. Total diamond weight, 1.15 carats, circa 1880. Via Diamonds in the Library.

This ring might look a little bit like a squid but it’s the prettiest squid you ever did see. It features a natural pink conch pearl (you know how I love conch pearls) and three sparkling white European-cut diamonds, totaling 1.15 carats. The diamonds are arranged in a pattern somewhat reminiscent of a fleur d’ leis. The ring is Victorian, circa 1880, and is set in platinum and yellow gold.

Vintage gold and ruby dragon ring in 18k gold. Via Diamonds in the Library.

I’m reasonably sure you don’t need me to explain to you what I love about this ring. But I will anyway: look at his little face!! Those ruby eyes are full of personality. That, and the incredible detailing of the gold – look at the horns, don’t they look like two elaborately coiled springs? And I love how the twisted motif goes all around the shank. This beauty is vintage, made Greece at an unknown date, and it’s set in 18 K gold.

If you’re hungry for more unusual rings, please revisit some of the memorable weirdos I’ve posted in the past, like the Chopard rubber duckie ring, the coral wizard ring, the diamond turkey ring, the Piaget cocktail-shaped cocktail rings, and Wallace Chan’s abstract serpentine masterpiece.

All of the pretties in this post were listed for sale at the fabulous Lang Antiques. All images and info are thanks to Lang.

Art Nouveau plique-à-jour enamel, peridot, and diamond necklace.

July 17, 2013

I don’t show you enough Art Nouveau pieces. Art Nouveau jewelry is frequently very ornate, which makes it more difficult to translate into the modern day than say, Art Deco jewelry. But it’s often very beautiful and almost always worth looking at.

Art Nouveau plique-à-jour enamel, peridot, and diamond necklace, circa 1900.

This spectacular necklace was made in 1900. It stars a pear-shaped peridot weighing approximately 2.20 carats, amid an openwork frame, decorated by plique-à-jour enamel, rose- and old-cut diamonds. The piece is completed by a double link-chain spectacle-set with rose-cut diamonds, mounted in 18 karat white and yellow gold.

Want to see the full view? Of course you do.

An antique Art Nouveau plique-à-jour enamel, peridot, and diamond necklace, circa 1900.

Fabulous. The pendant is detachable – it’s intended to function as a brooch, but the listing mentions that the brooch fitting is currently missing.

At just around 14 inches, this Art Nouveau plique-à-jour enamel, peridot, and diamond necklace is almost a choker. I imagine the dangling diamond fans would hover tantalizingly over a the clavicle of a lady lucky enough to wear this.

Here’s a detail shot of the side enamel.

And of the central element, because it’s spectacular and deserves millions of pictures.

This Art Nouveau plique-à-jour enamel, peridot, and diamond necklace was listed in Sotheby’s April 2010 Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite auction. All images and info are thanks to Sotheby’s.

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