sautoirs Archives

Seed pearl, sapphire, and diamond sautoir, Cartier.

August 19, 2013

I thought I was diversifying by picking a non-Cartier piece to show you with this one, but it turns out I just hadn’t read the whole description.

This beautiful Belle Epoque sautoir was made by Cartier in the 1910’s. The necklace itself is a mesh made of strung-together seed pearls, gathered at the front by a diamond wreath link. The seed pearl mesh suspends a detachable cabochon drop-shaped sapphire with diamond cap, to the diamond-set clasp. The piece is signed Cartier Paris, no. C7425.

Antique Edwardian seed pearl, sapphire, and diamond sautoir by Cartier, circa 1910s. Via Diamonds in the Library.

This seed pearl, sapphire, and diamond sautoir, Cartier, was listed in Christie’s November 2012 Magnificent Jewels sale. All images and info are thanks to Christie’s.

Antique diamond bow and pearl sautoir.

August 7, 2013

Happy Wednesday!! How about something antique with a bow?

An antique diamond bow and pearl sautoir necklace.

Sigh. Perfection.

This lovely diamond and pearl sautoir dates to 1905, so I’d call it late Edwardian or early Art Deco. It dangles two lustrous silvery gray drop pearls attached by bellflower diamond caps to a platinum bar chain necklace spaced by diamond collet and seed pearl trios. The necklace also features a diamond-set triple loop ribbon tied bow, which dangles the two pearls from its ribbon ends.

An antique diamond bow and pearl sautoir from the Belle Epoque era.

I needed to give you a closer look at that bow. Look at its lovely, contoured ribbon shape, the way the millegraining adds texture along the edges, the perfect smattering of diamonds to add sparkle. I also love the asymmetry of the chains, the way that the diamond and pearl elements are different on the right and left sides. For a delicate piece, there’s a lot to add visual interest here.

Here’s the full view. You can see that it’s a longish piece; at about 20 inches, this necklace would dangle its silvery pearls just above a lady’s decolletage. An ethereal piece that I think could be very sensual, depending on what kind of neckline it was paired with. It would be a dream as a wedding-day necklace.

This incredible diamond and pearl sautoir is currently for sale at S.J. Philips. All images and info are thanks to S.J. Phillips.

Art Deco diamond and gem-set ladybug sautoir.

July 10, 2013

I’ve actually been avoiding posting this ladybug sautoir because I’m not sure how to do it justice.

This stunning example of Art Deco gorgousness was made sometime in the 1920’s, as you may have suspected, my jewelry sleuths.

As you can see above, this ladybug sautoir features an intricate geometric plaque set with single- and brilliant-cut diamonds, decorated with calibré-cut amethysts, rubies, sapphires and emeralds. The plaque may be detached and worn as a brooch. And, although Sotheby’s didn’t mention it in their listing, I think the central element is a diamond, ruby and sapphire ladybug. You see that too, right? I’m not nuts?

It’s a sautoir, so – as we have discused – that means it features a pendant hanging from a (usually long) chain. This is short for a sautoir; it only measures 16 inches from the clasp to the tip of the pendant. But oh, how glorious the chain is.

As you can see here, that fabulous plaque is hanging from a fine chain millegrain set with rubies, diamonds, emeralds, and sapphires to match the design of the pendant. For me, this gem-set chain is what makes this a truly exceptional piece (that, and the ladybug). I love the pendant, but it’s not particularly usual for the period – although it is remarkably colorful. The chain, though! Spectacular.

This ladybug sautoir was listed in Sotheby’s May 2011 Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels auction. All images and info are thanks to Sotheby’s.

Follow along with me on Instagram