Tiffany and Co Archives

Two exceptional 1920s engagement rings.

May 23, 2014

What’s that? You think I post too many 1920s engagement rings? (Just kidding. Who would say anything so ridiculous?)

The two I have for you today don’t have anything really in common, they just both struck me as exceptional so I decided to lump them together. Plus, they look like they get along well, don’t you think?

Let’s take a look at this beauty first. Oh my goodness, do I love an East-West marquise. (“East-West” means that the center stone is set with the long ends pointing to the sides, instead of straight up and down.) This one was made in 1925 by none other than Tiffany & Co., so it’s no wonder it’s a beauty.

Oh, yes. You’re no average 1920s engagement ring, are you, my pretty? Just look at the twisting, ribbon-like details on the sides of the center stone, the engraving along the shank! Glorious. Let’s get even closer.

When it’s this close in, you can really see how the center stone is floating in its millegrained elliptical halo.

I couldn’t resist taking a last, full look. This ring is a queen of refined simplicity; a collection of tiny details and one remarkable stone that form a glorious whole.

Ring #2 reminds me of a peacock. The other one got all that florid prose, this one just gets “looks like a peacock.”

My favorite thing about this early Art Deco stunner – which dates to 1920 and only narrowly makes my cut for “1920s engagement rings” – is that the sapphire side stones vary in color. If that turns out to be a trick of the light in which this piece was photographed, I will be very sad.

You see what I mean about the color of the sapphires? Of course, the rest of the ring is magnificent on its own: just look at that engraving! And I love the shape of it; it has such presence. No one’s going to fail to notice this beauty on your finger.

Sigh. My heart goes pitter-patter.

You know what I’m going to ask, because it’s my favorite question: which of these would you choose if you could only choose one?

Both of these wonderful 1920s engagement rings are currently available at Erstwhile Jewelry Co – please see descriptions above for links. All images and info in this post are thanks to Erstwhile Jewelry Co.

Antique diamond and pearl bow brooches.

November 25, 2013

I like brooches as much as the next lady, but I don’t really wear them. I think that’s why I often pass them over for blog posts. This will not do, as there are many pretty brooches that deserve to be shared. I am going to redouble my efforts not to ignore them. We will start with bows.

Antique diamond and pearl bow brooch, circa 1905. Made of gold and is set with one old European-cut diamond (.50 ct.), 42 old European-cut diamonds (1.25 cts.), and 2 pearls. Via Diamonds in the Library.

This little lovely is Belle Époque, from 1905. It’s made of gold and is set with one old European-cut diamond(.50 ct.), 42 old European-cut diamonds (1.25 cts.), and 2 pearls. It’s a little hard to see from the picture, but the tails of the diamond “ribbon” are both hinged, so the brooch’s ends and their pearl drops would sway as the lucky lady wearing this brooch went about her daily business.

Antique Victorian diamond and pearl bow brooch, circa 1890. Rhodium-plated silver and gold studded with 99 old-mine & rose-cut diamonds, totaling approximately 2.50 carats. Via Diamonds in the Library.

Bow brooch #2 is late Victorian, made in 1890. This rhodium-plated silver and gold brooch is really interesting in the extent of its asymmetry. It is studded with 99 old-mine & rose-cut diamonds, totaling approximately 2.50 carats. The center and one tail of the ribbon are also set with button pearls.

This bow brooch is a bit more ornate with a more abstract bow. It is another Belle Epoque brooch; it was made in 1910. It is topped by a delicate, diamond-set bow supporting a diamond-set garland swag, centering one drop-shaped iridescent yellowish brown/black button pearl and suspends another pearl, an oval iridescent yellowish brown/black pearl.

Antique Belle Epoque diamond and pearl bow brooch, circa 1910.

This brooch is the only big-name piece in the bunch: it’s Tiffany and Co, circa 1905. It’s designed as a stylized, looped diamond-set bow, centering one old European-cut diamond (approx .40 ct.), suspending two lines of 7 flexibly set diamonds, tipped by one pinkish-brown pearl and one creamy pearl. The pearls are both capped by rose-cut diamonds, bringing the brooch’s total diamond count to 52 old European-cut diamonds, weighing approximately 2.90 cts.

I know it’s a tough call, but I have to ask: which bow brooch is your favorite?

These antique bow brooches were listed in Doyle New York’s October 2012 Important Estate Jewelry sale. All images and info are thanks to Doyle New York.

Three exquisite Jean Schlumberger brooches.

November 14, 2013

Today, we’re going to take a look at some fabulous Jean Schlumberger brooches. Two are animals, one is a vegetable. I’m sure you’re excited already.

It’s hard to imagine ever waking up in the morning and thinking, “Today requires a camel brooch!” but maybe if I had a camel brooch like this one I’d be familiar with the feeling. I especially enjoy how the good folks at Bonhams posed it marching through a dark desert strewn with other jewelry.

The gold camel is wearing a cultured pearl headdress (fancy!), has a vivid blue pailloné enamel hump, and is further adorned with circular-cut diamonds and one oval-cut pink sapphire.

In this image, you can really see the texture of the gold. I’m almost expecting the camel to turn his head and shake the reins, or for its fur to blow in the wind. It’s more of a tiny statue than anything else. I admire it greatly, but I’m still having a hard time imagining how anyone would wear it. On the lapel of a blazer or collar of a coat, perhaps? What do you think?

Here’s the eggplant, since I’m sure you’re excited to see the vegetable brooch. The “eggplant” itself is made of bright green pailloné enamel and is adorned at the bottom with a ruby cabochon. The eggplant is striped with gold and is suspended from a very pretty brilliant-cut diamond spray of leaves and flowers. Look how precise the angle of each of those flower petals are.

I have to say: as visually appealing as this is, I don’t think it looks overly much like an eggplant. Shouldn’t it be purple? Maybe it’s not ripe. I’ve only ever seen eggplants in a grocery store or on my plate.

Last but not least of today’s Jean Schlumberger brooches: the gazelle. The pavé-set diamond head features haunting, cabochon sapphire eyes and supports two delicately twisting gold antlers and textured ears. The gazelle carefully holds a gold and pear-shaped emerald branch of leaves in its mouth.

I really, really like this one. It feels so deliberate, from the tilt of the gazelle’s antlers to the curl of the green leaves. Which brooch was your favorite?

These Jean Schlumberger brooches were all listed in an October 2013 Bonhams auction. Please see individual descriptions for links to listings. All images and info are thanks to Bonhams.

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