It’s my birthday!! Happy birthday to me. My present to myself (besides the jewelry I already bought myself last week…oops) is that we are going to look at one my favorite pieces of all time.
My goal for this post is to sound as little like Gollum as possible. We’ll see how it goes.
Edward, Duke of Windsor and almost-King of England, did a really good job of proving that he loved Wallis Simpson. Sure, it was no small thing when he abdicated the throne for her. But what really impresses me is the fact that he bought her some of the most amazing jewelry the world has ever seen, much of it specially commissioned. We are only going to talk about one piece today: her Cartier panther bracelet, but you can see several other spectacular pieces here.
Image via Bride-to-be.
Cartier created this bracelet in Paris in 1952. The finely-sculpted body is pavé-set with brilliant- and single-cut diamonds and calibré-cut onyx. Each eye is carefully set with a marquise-shaped emerald. It is 195 mm long and wears as if it’s 165 mm long. In American, that means it’s 6.5 inches and would fit me perfectly. Be still my heart.
I usually don’t mention prices, but you should be aware that this baby sold for just over 7 million dollars. I’m pretty sure it’s worth every penny.
The most remarkable feature of this bracelet – besides the sensuous lines and emerald eyes of the elegant panther – is the piece’s extensive articulation. The panther is jointed along its entire length to allow the bracelet to drape itself around a lucky wearer’s wrist rather than remaining rigid like a bangle.
Here, the bracelet lounges languidly on a white-gloved hand in front of a Cecil Beaton portrait of Wallis Simpson at Sotheby’s auction rooms in London. Photo by Kirsty Wigglesworth, AP, via Pricescope.
Sotheby’s says the piece is “designed to encircle the wrist and to assume a stalking attitude.” Sounds like an accurate description to me. Just look how perfectly detailed he is; the perk of his ears, the shape of his paws.
Here is the fabulous Duchess of Windsor herself, looking happy in her bracelet (and why shouldn’t she be?).
A lovely view here of the bracelet’s fluidity, thanks to Technology Marketing Corporation.
Here the bracelet is stretched out to its full length for the Sotheby’s catalogue. Isn’t it crazy to think of such an iconic piece having something as mundane as a clasp? I would have just expected the panther to come momentarily to life and clasp its own tail in its paw.
More stalking. The Independent described the lady modeling the bracelet in this image as “A person.”
A photo of the bracelet napping in its Cartier box, via News.com.au.
Image via Lasca Sartoris.
One last photo to give us a new view of the face and limbs. Goodbye for now, precious panther. I’ll see you in my dreams.
This bracelet was listed in Sotheby’s Exceptional Jewels and Precious Objects Formerly in the Collection of The Duchess of Windsor sale. All images and info are thanks to Sotheby’s unless otherwise noted.
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Hi I recently inherited a panther braclet which is platinum and looks identical to the Mrs Simpson one however the only stamp is a French hallmark. I sent it to Cartier for them to evaluate – it is the correct weight but they cannot inform me if it is definitely Cartier due to me not having the original paperwork. They have stated that when they were made at that time they did not stamp everything with the Cartier hallmark and that it may be Cartier but they cannot confirm it.
Do you have any advise on how to find out if it is Cartier or not?
Many thanks.
Sending to to Cartier would have been my first suggestion, so you’ve already made a great start! If they won’t confirm it for sure, no one else will either, I’m afraid – but you could definitely try to find an appraiser or dealer who is experienced in signed estate jewelry to see if they’ll be willing to say that it’s “probably” Cartier at the very least.
Either way, sounds like you are the owner of a remarkable treasure!
xoxo,
Becky
I have a very good replica looks like diamanté on silver, marked 925 with 377. the detail is beautiful, and the articulation is stunning, is this worth anything,. its rampant and almost an exact replica of the Simpson bracelet, minus the gemstones.
It sounds like a great piece! As for whether or not it’s worth anything, that will depend on the materials, condition, and maker of your specific piece. I recommend taking it to a reputable jewelry appraiser and having it appraised if you’d like to have a solid idea of its value.
xoxo,
Becky
After my grandma passed I received her jewelry, nothing valuable but there is a copy of this panther bracelet, do you know who made replica of them? Is there any value? I love the way it hangs on my wrist, even if it is a fake it’s beautiful.
For replicas, value comes down to maker and materials. Have you examined the inside and clasps to see if it has any makers marks? They would be little stamps in the metal with a tiny word, picture, or something like “14K,” which would refer to the type of metal used.
If the piece itself doesn’t have any clues, I think the best next step is to take it to a local jewelry store and see if they can test the gemstones for you. If the stones are real, it may be worth hiring someone to do a full appraisal.
And I’m so sorry for the loss of your grandma.
xoxo,
Becky
Angela would love to see a picture of yours, as i have one also made for the movie, my aunt left me
I think i have the replica. .
I bet it’s fabulous! It’s not surprising that a piece this incredible would inspire replicas.
xoxo,
Becky
I LOVE AND ADORE SHINY, SPARKLY METAL ENDCASED TRINKETS. LIKE A BOWER BIRD! HOWEVER, i WAS NEVER A FAN OF THE DOW’s STYLE OF JEWELRY. MUCH OF IT IS JUST BIG & GAUDY TO BE BIG & GAUDY.WITHOUT ANY REAL TASTE BEHIND IT. CRAFTSMANSHIP, YES! TASTE, NO! THE CROSS BRACELET IS LOVELY. A FEW OTHER PIECES ARE AS WELL. THEN ONE DAY I WAS INVITED TO THE DOW’s JEWELRY SHOW, THE REAL ONES. I PASSED EACH CASE WITH SIMPLE NOD, TO ITS HISTORY & GAUDINESS. THEN, I STOPPED AT THE CASE CONTAINING THE DOW’s BLUE CHALCEDONY BEAD NECKLACE AND EARRINGS. OH!!!!! I BECAME ABSOLUTELY DIZZY! THOSE FAT,, ROUND BLUE LACE BEADS JUST SAT THERE TAUNTNG ME WITH THEIR BEAUTY. SO SMOOTH & CREAMY IN THEIR COOL BLUENESS. OH MY!!! I CAN STILL SEE THEM GLISTENING, LIKE PALE WATER DROPS NESTLED INSIDE THEIR SAFETY CASE. OH MY! OH MY!
I have a panther charm from Cartier and wonder what it ma be worth?
If you have a panther charm from Cartier, it’s definitely worth something! You should find a jewelry appraiser in your area and get it looked at.
Hahaha you cracked me up! I’ve also always loved the Cartier panther, so your post was a real treat to read as I’ve never seen this bracelet before. Thanks so much for writing it, it was hilarious and informative, so sad that I missed the auction though hahaha 🙂