Heart motifs are sort of perilous. It’s easy for them to skew kind of saccharine and pedestrian. Heart-shaped gems are also far from being my favorite cut for a stone.
But in the right piece, they can also be majestic beyond all comprehension:
This Edwardian sapphire and diamond ring is downright regal; I practically hear a trumpet fanfare when I look at it. Doesn’t it feel like it should be attached to some royal family’s crown jewels?
The central element is a 1.20 carat heart-shaped antique diamond, ample and juicy and wonderful. It’s bezel-set in delicately millegrained platinum, which is framed by a of halo of negative space to cleanse the palate for the next layer of setting, which is extremely ornate.
Beyond the negative space – which I’m calling “the diamond’s moat” in my head and now in writing, apparently – is another layer of millegraining, a row of calibre scissor-cut sapphires, a layer of millegraining, and then a fabulous row of small collet-set diamonds on the bottom and a sort of foliate flourish on the top.
The foliate feeling of the upper element is echoed in the setting’s stunning foliate shoulders, which are almost wing-like in their proportions. The shoulder detail then subsides into more sedate engraving along the shank, flanked by a touch of further millegrain detailing.
It’s almost too over the top, but it’s so well balanced that the combination is almost too fabulous for words.
I’m actually actually wearing an Edwardian sapphire and diamond ring as I write this, and it’s somewhat similar in silhouette to this baby…so I’d be lying if I didn’t admit to squinting at my hand and doing some serious pretending between editing images and typing.
What do you think of this piece, my dears? Too ornate for you, or just right? How do you feel about heart-shaped gemstones in general?
This Edwardian sapphire and diamond ring is currently for sale at Lang Antiques. All images and info are thanks to Lang Antiques.