Heart motifs are sort of perilous. It’s easy for them to skew kind of saccharine and pedestrian. Heart-shaped gems are also far from being my favorite cut for a stone.
But in the right piece, they can also be majestic beyond all comprehension:
This Edwardian sapphire and diamond ring is downright regal; I practically hear a trumpet fanfare when I look at it. Doesn’t it feel like it should be attached to some royal family’s crown jewels?
The central element is a 1.20 carat heart-shaped antique diamond, ample and juicy and wonderful. It’s bezel-set in delicately millegrained platinum, which is framed by a of halo of negative space to cleanse the palate for the next layer of setting, which is extremely ornate.
Beyond the negative space – which I’m calling “the diamond’s moat” in my head and now in writing, apparently – is another layer of millegraining, a row of calibre scissor-cut sapphires, a layer of millegraining, and then a fabulous row of small collet-set diamonds on the bottom and a sort of foliate flourish on the top.
The foliate feeling of the upper element is echoed in the setting’s stunning foliate shoulders, which are almost wing-like in their proportions. The shoulder detail then subsides into more sedate engraving along the shank, flanked by a touch of further millegrain detailing.
It’s almost too over the top, but it’s so well balanced that the combination is almost too fabulous for words.
I’m actually actually wearing an Edwardian sapphire and diamond ring as I write this, and it’s somewhat similar in silhouette to this baby…so I’d be lying if I didn’t admit to squinting at my hand and doing some serious pretending between editing images and typing.
What do you think of this piece, my dears? Too ornate for you, or just right? How do you feel about heart-shaped gemstones in general?
This Edwardian sapphire and diamond ring is currently for sale at Lang Antiques. All images and info are thanks to Lang Antiques.
I have a copy of this ring that I bought from eBay! It’s done in sterling and it’s identical to this one. I had no idea that it was a copy of a real antique ring. Wow.
Hi Jennifer after first seeing this on here in 2015 I’ve loved this ring & had even debating getting a jeweler to make me a copy!
I read your post yesterday & I nearly fainted with excitement reading you’d got a copy from ebay! Can you remember who you bought yours from as you say yours is perfect. My hunt uncovered 4 companies on ebay.
Found one on Joom £5 reduced from £20 & reviews say it’s an exact copy of the photo so I’m taking a chance & if it’s rubbish I’ve other options…
Joan Taras says
Wow! I’ve never seen a heart shaped diamond before. It certainly is an interesting piece. Thanks for sharing.
Aww! Just the love intricate detailing. Found my latest purchase on http://www.barnebys.com. A silver victorian ring with rubies and garnets. They have a jewelry section with lots of vintage frosting. Awsome blog by the way! Always read it before i turn in for the night!
Thanks, Lisa! Your ring sounds beautiful: love garnets and rubies!
Jewellers sydney says
1.2 carat heart shaped diamond is like wonderful. whole ring finishing elevating with this heart shaped diamond only. Looking like princes crown shape on the diamond top. Blue stones out side shaping bring the new look to the ring. i really loved it. Thanks for the information. It is really worth full to read.
Becky, you have outdone yourself. My keyboard is covered in drool. There is not a box this ring does not tick. Superlatives are not necessary. It is visual heaven.
That’s exactly how I feel! I’m so glad you love it too.
I am the very happy new owner of the fabulous Edwardian diamond heart ring you featured, and I share your sentiments, all of them, on the subject of hearts and jewelry. With that said, I additionally am in love with my Edwardian heart shaped necklace, which does not feature a heart-shaped diamond, but rather a small ring of rectangularly cut rubies which form the shape of a heart around a more traditional to the era diamond /platinum bow design. Prior to that purchase and well before receiving this most incredible gift, I looked to the heart design and even more so, heart-shaped diamonds, as almost juvenile. This ring with its “juicy” center stone as you do aptly described it, is sophisticated, feminine and oh, so romantic. I am so excited that you chose to write about this ring, and thought it to be such a beautiful coincidence that I saw your blog post the day after my husband presented it to me for my birthday.
I’m so excited to hear from you! It sounds like this ring has found a wonderful home with you. It has a lot of fans – my facebook page has been blowing up with people wondering whose lucky hand this beauty ended up on. Thanks so much for commenting!!
I can’t believe your husband picked out that ring for you all by himself! I called Lang and they said it was already sold. If it was available, i would have had to buy it and leave it on my husband’s sink to let him know that it was my next occasion gift :).
As it were, i found a smaller version of this ring with rubies instead of sapphires. I told my husband that it is our 19th anniversary gift in Jan 2017 (I’m already wearing it)!
I couldn’t put it down. I tagged diamondsinthelibrary on instagram so if you want to see my smaller version, take a look.
It really is a beauty!
Congratulations on owning this wonderful ring! After first seeing this on here in 2015 I went straight to the page but it was sold. I always wondered who the lucky lady was!
I love this ring so much I’d even debated getting a jeweler to make me a copy. I’ve just read a post saying I can get a copy so ordered one I know it won’t be anywhere near owning the real thing but I’ll love it ‘nearly’ as much!
I agree that most heart shaped stones are saccharine, but this is really a beauty! I like that ‘collar’ of sapphires and diamonds along the bottom. It almost reminds me of a Claddaugh ring by it’s shape and style: Crown on top (and below) and leafy hands reaching. Just Lovely!
Lydia Lepic says
I generally don’t like heart shaped gem stones either. They remind me of plastic princess crowns. But this ring is very pretty! I would have just glanced at it and moved on had I seen it elsewhere, but reading your description made me slow down and really appreciate the details like the “diamond moat.” 🙂 Knowing what I’m looking at helps me to have a greater appreciation of it.
Thanks so much, Lydia! You always leave me the loveliest comments.