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A lady with a love for literature and shiny things discusses books & bling.

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Art Deco diamond and gem-set parrot brooch.

Three years ago today, my mom had a bone marrow transplant. Because of that transplant, she is still around to be my mom (and my most faithful blog reader). I just want a second to say thank you to her donor – whoever you are, you saved her life, and I’m grateful.

While my mom was sick, I did some work with a wonderful organization called DKMS. DKMS provides free registration and testing for bone marrow donors, organizes bone marrow donor drives, provides information, and provides support to patients who need bone marrow transplants.

Please take a minute to consider if you might be willing to sign up as a bone marrow donor. The test is easy and painless. If you are a match, the procedures are safe and you have the chance to save someone’s life.

Even if you don’t want to be a bone marrow donor (or can’t for medical reasons, like me) you can sign up to donate your time or contribute money in support of DKMS.  It only takes $65 to cover the costs for one new donor. Knowing you could save someone’s life – that’s even better than buying jewelry, isn’t it? And that’s not a thing I say often.

My mom loves birds and bright colors – today’s piece is in her honor. I think this brooch is one of the loveliest pieces of jewelery I’ve ever found on the internet. The craftsmanship is superb and the colors are stunning.

Art Deco diamond and gem-set parrot brooch with tutti-fruitti gems (calibre sapphires, diamonds, and rubies), circa 1935. Parrots detach and may be worn separately. Via Diamonds in the Library.

Circa 1935, this Art Deco brooch is set with diamonds and “tutti-frutti gems” (calibre sapphires, diamonds, and rubies). It’s shaped like two parrots playing on a diamond-set branch. The birds are gem-set with diamond details.

The best part – each parrot detaches and can be worn separately. You could relocate them every few minutes and be a living parrot puppet show. The possibilities are endless.

This brooch is currently for sale at S.J. Philips. All images and info are thanks to S.J. Philips.

Art Deco tutti frutti bracelet by Cartier.

This bracelet is “tutti frutti” style, a design approach involving colorful gemstones, often carved, to make up brightly colored and cheerful designs. Cartier popularized this style in the 1920’s, inspired by the jewels of India. (Thanks to Lang’s AJU for the historical context.)

I think it’s so interesting that the exuberant, colorful, almost garishness of tutti frutti design flourished alongside the clean geometric lines of what we typically think of as Art Deco style. I suppose it was filling a niche – everything can’t be clean lines all the time.

Art Deco tutti frutti bracelet, by Cartier, circa 1930. Designed as a meandering diamond vine, the barcelet is set with carved ruby, sapphire and emerald leaves, enhanced by emerald bead berries.This particular tutti frutti bracelet was made by Cartier, London, in 1930. Designed as a meandering diamond vine, the bracelet is set along the top and bottom with carved ruby, sapphire and emerald leaves, enhanced by emerald bead berries and collet-set old European-cut diamonds.

Clasp of an Art Deco tutti frutti bracelet, by Cartier, circa 1930. Designed as a diamond vine and set with carved ruby, sapphire and emerald leaves, and emerald bead berries.
Please note how every leaf and berry is individually carved. (So tutti and fruitti!) I don’t imagine anyone more than a foot away from the bracelet would even be able to see the carving, but that’s the kind of detail that makes Cartier exceptional.

The bracelet ends in a pavé-set diamond buckle clasp, to the pavé-set diamond buckle clasp, decorated with triangular and rectangular-cut black onyx geometric detail.

What do you think, my darlings? Are you on board the tutti frutti bracelet train, or do you prefer the more crisp, geometric designs of classic Art Deco style?

This tutti frutti bracelet was listed in Christie’s 22 April 2010 Jewels auction. All images and info are thanks to Christie’s.

An Art Deco tutti frutti bracelet, by Cartier, circa 1930. Designed as a diamond vine and set with carved ruby, sapphire and emerald leaves, and emerald bead berries.

Art Deco diamond, emerald, onyx, and enamel bracelet by Mauboussin.

This bracelet is a sparkling masterpiece of Art Deco jewelry genius.

Art Deco diamond, emerald, onyx, and enamel bracelet by Mauboussin, circa 1925. Via Diamonds in the Library.

If I hold up my arm and close one eye, it almost looks like I have the bracelet on.

This piece was made by Mauboussin in 1925. It has a flexible openwork strap of lattice design, centering a rose set with a round cabochon emerald. The petals of the flower are set with old European-cut diamonds (approx 3.65 carats), buff-top cabochon emeralds, and cabochon onyx segments.

The bracelet is set throughout with old European-cut, round and single-cut diamonds (approximately 10.55 carats) and sugar-loaf cabochon and buff-top cabochon emeralds and onyxes. The bracelet is about 7 inches long, and the clasp is embellished with black enamel.

An Art Deco diamond, emerald, onyx, and enamel bracelet by Mauboussin, circa 1925. Via Diamonds in the Library.
Now scroll back up and look at it again. (Please note: you only have to do this a few times. I’m not trying to catch you in an infinite bracelet ogling loop.)

Detail; an Art Deco diamond, emerald, onyx, and enamel bracelet by Mauboussin, circa 1925. Via Diamonds in the Library.

Here’s a closer look. So perfect.

This item was listed in Sotheby’s December 2011 auction. All images and info are thanks to Sotheby’s.

*** Fun fact: I got to try this bracelet on in person, completely by coincidence, almost exactly three years later!! See it here.

 An exquisite Art Deco diamond, emerald, onyx, and enamel bracelet by Mauboussin, circa 1925. Via Diamonds in the Library. A remarkable Art Deco diamond, emerald, onyx, and enamel bracelet by Mauboussin, circa 1925. Via Diamonds in the Library.

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